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Last Updated: Nov 10th, 2005 - 19:31:01 |
If someone had told me even three years ago that Carmel would be producing wines that would be earning scores of 90 or higher, I would have been more than a bit skeptical. Happily, I no longer have to struggle to remain polite, and the recent release of four single vineyard wines in their "Kerem" ("Single Vineyard") series shows the quality revolution that started at Carmel two years ago is alive and well and continuing apace.
Wines made entirely from the grapes of a specific vineyard have several advantages, not the least of which is the ability sometimes to experience the enormous personality differences between wines made by the same wine-making team in similar conditions.
In no way can we better sense the impact of terroir, that is to say, the main impact of the differing soil types, altitudes, soil-water relationships and specific micro-climates of various vineyards and how those affect the nature of the wine.
An excellent way to experience this fully is to purchase one bottle of each of the three Cabernet Sauvignon wines just released, to invite friends over and to taste the three side-by-side. After that, of course, one can decide which wine or wines are most suited to his or her own palate and stock up on as many bottles as is desired for future drinking. Not unimportantly, each of these recently released is priced reasonably. An asterisk signifies value for money.
Carmel, Merlot, Har Bracha, Single Vineyard, 2002: Full-bodied, complex and notably tannic, a Merlot with true personality. Dark purple toward black, with the tannins as yet still rather firm but with the balance and structure that bode well for the future. As the wine comes into its own, look for black cherry, currant and plum fruits, those on a spicy cedar-wood background. Give this one time. Best from 2006 to 2009, perhaps longer. NIS 85. Score 92 (*)
© Copyright 5764, 5765 by author and Tsel Harim
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